National Association of Counties * Washington, D.C.            Vol. 31, No. 12 * June 21, 1999

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St. Louis cuisine scene: From
homey Italian to ‘concrete’ milkshakes

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County News consulted with St. Louis restaurant critics/food writers Joe Pollack and Ann Lemons, authors of "Beyond Toasted Ravioli" (recently published by Virginia Publishing) about the St. Louis restaurant scene.

Their top picks?

• Fio’s La Fourchette in Clayton (about a 20-minute cab ride from downtown), was recently named by Gourmet magazine readers as St. Louis residents’ favorite restaurant. Fio’s specializes in traditional French cooking; the menu includes veal medallions served with wild mushrooms, roast lobster, and grilled Norwegian salmon. Desserts include a Swiss chocolate souffle.
  7515 Forsyth Blvd.
  314/863-6866
  Hours: 6–9 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday
  Average entrée: More than $20
  Hours: 6–9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday
  Smoking only at the bar
• Tony’s "is the city’s best, most cosmopolitan dining room," according to the New York Times. Italian classics plain and fancy are served.
  410 Market St.
  314/231-7007
  Hours: 5–11 p.m. weekdays; 5–11:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday
  Average entrée: From $19.50–$34.75
  Smoking section
• Café de France, according to Zagat’s restaurant guide, is a place to go to "be pampered, with superb food and service, lovely ambiance" and is "everything an expensive restaurant should be."
  410 Olive St.
  314/231-2204
  Hours: Monday–Saturday, 5–10 p.m.; closed Sunday
  Average entrée: $15–$25
  Smoking section
• Morton’s Steakhouse in Clayton serves big steaks and three- and four-pound lobsters for hearty appetites. Desserts are made on the premises.
  314/725-4008
  7822 Bonhomme in Clayton
  Hours: 5:30–11 p.m.; 5–10 p.m. Sunday
  Entrée : About $29
  Smoking sections, including a cigar lounge
• Dominic’s On the Hill has a romantic atmosphere and specializes in Italian cuisine, including pasta, fish, veal, chicken and beef dishes; desserts include cannoli.
  314/771-1632
  5101 Wilson on the Hill
  Closed Sunday
  Entrees: $20–$25
  Separate smoking section
• Gian Peppe’s Ristorante specializes in Italian and seafood; according to The New York Times, "you’ll find the soul of St. Louis food on the Hill, the close-knit neighborhood where Italians have clustered for a century. Pepe Profetta and his mother, Gabriella, come from Palermo, but try their red snapper in the style of Livorno anyway. They can cook almost anything." Formal setting with friendly waiters.
  2126 Marconi Ave.
  314/772-3303
  Closed Sunday and Monday
  

The authors’ choices for off-the-beaten path include:

• O’Connell’s Pub is a casual place that serves hamburgers, roast beef, grilled chicken and soups and salads.
  West of downtown at King’s Highway and Interstate 44
  314/773-6600
  Open seven days a week
  Smoking OK
• Broadway Oyster Bar specializes in Cajun and Creole cuisine (oysters six ways) with music, mostly blues and jazz, seven nights a week. It is located two blocks south of Busch Stadium, between downtown and the Soulard neighborhood.
  736 S. Broadway314/621-8811
  314/621-8811
  Open daily from 11 a.m., close at 1:30 a.m. Monday through Thursday; 3 a.m. Friday and Saturday nights and until about midnight Sundays.
  Smoking OK

Rest of the best
Other choices from the St. Louis Post-Dispatch, Zagat’s restaurant guide and The New York Times include:

• Babalu’s
  Caribbean seafood, using lots of fresh fruit, chilis and guacamole; best of the entrees include pork chop grilled and brushed with ginger and rum glaze; citrus pepper grilled salmon; Calypso spiced pork roast; desserts include coffee flan and caramel banana cake.
  8 1/2 S. Euclid Ave., Central West End
  314/367-7833
  Hours: Monday–Saturday, 5–10 p.m.; closed Sunday
  Entrée range: $9.50–$13
  Smoking only at the bar
• Crown Candy Kitchen
  Opened in 1913, a funky, eclectic, out-of-the-past soda fountain fare, including soups, sandwiches (BLT, Reuben, grilled cheese, roast beef) and homemade ice cream. The traditional chocolate malt will take you back to your teen years with one sip. Service is fast.
  1401 St. Louis Ave.
  314/621-9650
  Hours: Monday–Saturday, 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Sunday, Noon–10 p.m.
  Sandwiches: $2.40–$5.50
  Smoking OK
• Faust’s
  A posh and relaxing upscale dining room at the Adam’s Mark Hotel. House specialties include rack of lamb and Maine lobsters. Desserts include a white chocolate cheesecake and a hazelnut Austrian tart topped with a quarter moon made of chocolate. No matter how stuffed you are, the server brings a small tray of truffles. Pierre’s jazz bar is adjacent to the restaurant.
  315 Chestnut St.
  314/342-4690
  Hours: Sunday–Thursday, 5:30–10 p.m.; Friday–Saturday, ‘til 10:30 p.m.; Pierre’s closed Sunday and Monday.
  Entrée range: $21–39
  Separate smoking section
• Harvest
  The New York Times calls this place a "knockout." "Harvest charmed us with its sand-hued décor, its fat all-American wine list and its homey Midwestern touches: for examples, sweetbreads with pureed parsnips and a Maytag blue cheese risotto."
  1059 S. Big Bend Blvd.
  314/645-3522
  Hours: Tuesday–Thursday, 5:30–9:30 p.m.; Friday–Saturday, ‘til 10 p.m.; Sunday, 5–9 p.m.; closed Monday.
• Sidney Street Café
  The American-Continental cuisine wins accolades as "five-star without the fuss" due to "fabulous food, a cozy romantic atmosphere and superior service," according to Zagat’s.
  2000 Sidney St.
  314/771-5777
  Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 5-9:30 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5-10:30 p.m.; closed Sunday and Monday.
  Price range: $28 includes dinner, drink and tip.
• Ted Drewes
  Take-out only; "This white frame building has been dispensing manna, disguised as frozen custard, since 1929," says The New York Times. Order a cone, a cup, a sundae or a shake, known here as a "concrete" because it’s so thick.
  6726 Chippewa St.
  314/481-2652
  Hours: 11 a.m.–midnight
• Zoe Pan Asian Café
  Shrimp in red curry coconut broth with Shanghai noodles is a standout among the entrees. Desserts include mango sorbet and roasted bananas.
  4753 McPherson Ave.
  314/361-0013
  Hours: 5:30–10 p.m.; ‘til 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
  Entrée range: $11–$16
  Separate non-smoking section